Cruisin' On Highway 12

I have wifi tonight, though I haven't had phone reception for the last couple days. As I mentioned last post, I have company for the portion of the trip from Washington to Missoula. We have shared campsites every night and tonight the last three campgrounds were closed and the next open one was two miles out of the way. We considered going there or finding a place in the woods. We were at a resort type area that had little camping cabins and decided, just for fun, to see what the rates were. It turned out to be fairly affordable, had two beds, and a restaurant on site so we decided to stay. I just finished up having a great bison burger and salad and fries. It is in a lodge of golden pine logs with a beautiful gas fireplace in the center of the room and game mounts and rugs decorating the walls. We are surrounded by forest and far enough from the highway to hear not a sound. The staff is very friendly and welcoming of our cycling tales and metabolism.

Yesterday I decided I was going to have a long ride day to try and make the next couple of days shorter, since we would be going over Lolo Pass. The ride was a pleasant winding road next to the Clearwater River and didn't have as much traffic as usual. The shoulder was sporadic and nonexistent at times, but averaged out to a foot or two wide most of the day. The traffic was generally friendly. Shorly after the day started the layers came off. For part of the day I was even able to ride without a shirt. Most of the ride was across the Nez Perce Indian Reservation. This followed much of the Lewis and Clark trail and had waypoints along the way.

The campground last night was amazing. We were the only ones there and it only cost $5 total. We were camped on an embankment over the middle fork of the Clearwater and the stream drowned the sound of the traffic throughout the night. There was a glorious white sand beach at the foot of five steps leading down to the river right next to the tent. I ate my meal here with the sound of the mild rapids and the quiet washing of the waves from the eddy washing onto the beach. The last of the suns rays cast down and kept me warm before the heat was lost behind the pines to the west. My tent was set upon a luxuriant bed of pine needles which added to the comfort of my sleeping pad. Between that and the soothing sounds of the river, it was one of my most restful nights sleep. Over the 101 miles ridden this day we only gained 600 ft in elevation.

Today the ride continued along the river. We changed to the Lochsa river and soon began seeing rapids, which a small number of people were shooting today. Later along in the day I came upon a couple in a van that asked me about my trip. The driver was getting ready to do a cross country trip this July. They informed me that there were hot springs down the trail we were by. They told me it would be a great side trip and since it was 1:30 and I only had ten more miles to go, I decided to give it a try. I found them and stayed for about 20 minutes then headed back. It was real restful and relaxed my legs. There was no one around and it was picturesque, having a pool surrounded by rocks with beautiful pine and spruce surrounding the hill sides and a rolling mountain stream sounding peacefully in the background.

I soon returned to the road and began riding again. A trucker shortly passed me and pulled off at the next pullout. He got out and started checking his truck and then waved when I went by. I nodded back and continued on for a few yards when a thought struck me and I turned back. The truck was white pulling a tanker trailer and had NORCO on the side. This was the type of truck the brother of the family I stayed in Bend with drove. I met him one night when he came for a visit. It turned out it was him. We talked for a bit and he took my pic by his truck. He offered to take me over the pass, but I declined for a few reasons, one of which being James coming along behind me.

The weather has been in the 70s and the sun has been shining and very little wind has been blowing. It couldn't be more perfect for summiting a pass. I believe I will probably be the first cyclist to do the pass this year. We are a bit early for the season, so many things are closed and potable water isn't prevalent. I believe I have figured my route across Montana and Wyoming now, so it should be a pleasant trip to Douglas.